All cellars

★★★ · est. 1993

De Librije.

Zwolle, Netherlands · Jonnie & Thérèse Boer · cellar of 1800

Signature

Stone-grilled North Sea turbot, fermented birch, smoked roe.

● The philosophy

A library of fermentation, fire and the Dutch landscape. The wine list is famously deep and unafraid of small growers.

The case · 4 bottles

434

Their list, in our cellar. One tap and we send the whole case — or pull bottles individually below.

● The pours · in order

How Jonnie
walks the table.

  1. 01

    Course

    Aperitif.

    Thérèse opens almost every dinner with grower Champagne.

    Egly-Ouriet — Granite

    Egly-Ouriet

    Granite

    Champagne, France · Pinot Noir · 2017

    Pastry, ripe pear, a chalk-and-iron backbone.

  2. 02

    Course

    Cold first.

    Slips under the smoked roe like it was built for it.

    Domaine Tissot — First Light

    Domaine Tissot

    First Light

    Jura, France · Chardonnay · 2021

    Toasted brioche, salted almond, soft yellow apple.

  3. 03

    Course

    Game course.

    The Burgundy pour the room waits all evening for.

    Domaine Leroy — Cathedral

    Domaine Leroy

    Cathedral

    Burgundy, France · Pinot Noir · 2018

    Rose petal, forest floor, a slow, unhurried bloom.

  4. 04

    Course

    Fermented vegetable course.

    Pairs with the kitchen's koji obsession.

    Movia — Garden Door

    Movia

    Garden Door

    Brda, Slovenia · Ribolla Gialla · 2021

    Quince skin, dried apricot, black tea.